David Brockington's Tasting Notebook

Brouwerij De Dolle Brouwers
(short notes)

Esen, Belgium
November 2, 2002 & July 15, 2000

An outstanding small brewery from Belgium, revered in beer geek circles.  These two notes are from atypical offerings; I intend to add notes on the standard range in time.

Stille Nacht 1985 Winter Ale
I had this beer at Cafe Kulminator, Antwerp, in July of 2000.  Kulminator is one of the world's truly outstanding beer cafes.  The ambiance is near perfect for contemplation, with no loud music (classical only) absolutely no television, and candles on every table (although I've found this appointment spotty).  The only Dutch cafe I've found that compares is De Wildeman in Amsterdam.  What sets Kulminator apart, aside from the annual birthday cards sent to those who sign the guest book, is the absolutely stunning range of aged beers at obscenely affordable prices.

Take this bottle of 15 year-old Stille Nacht, for example.  In July of 2000, I paid 202 Belgian Francs for this pleasure.  With the exchange rates in July 2000 heavily favoring the dollar, this bottle cost $4.04.  In Euros, it was 5.05.  Five Euros for a bottle of Stille Nacht aged 15 years is a steal.  (To give you an idea how the dollar has tumbled against the Euro, this bottle would cost $5.19 on December 24, 2002.)

The bottle that was brought to my table was covered in a thin film of dust, and the label was battered and faded.   Oxidation and a sharp fruitiness complimented each other in the aroma.  My notes inidcate that the oxidation enhanced the sour notes typical in a younger version of this beer (at least typical when they were allowed to use the Rodenbach yeast).  Maltiness with hints of fruit open the flavor, which evolves into a big raisiny flavor, bordering on grape.  This slowly attenuates on the palate, allowing a subtle spiciness to come to the fore.  The finish is pleasantly acedic.

If I were to have a complaint against this beer, it would be that the raisin flavor dominates, lasting a bit too long, supressing some of the nuance for which this beer is known.  However, one can hardly blame either the brewery or the publican for this; when you lay a bottle of Stille Nacht down for 15 years it's near impossible to know how it will evolve.

 
Stille Nacht Reserva 2000 Winter Ale
Sampled at the 24-uur festival, Antwerp, November 2, 2002.  Same beer, rather different treatment and circumstances.  This Stille Nacht release has been aged in red wine casks.  An interesting idea, which a few have tried in the past leading to cringing results (I think specifically of a Fish Brewery offering from several years ago).  The nose of this beer features a huge malt component, alcohol, and, what else, winy notes.  Malt opens the flavor, much like the 15 year old bottle discussed above.  Winy notes, alcohol, and woody flavors follow; the finish is dry from tannins.  This is an interesting offering, a good beer, but I find that the wine aging detracts from an otherwise outstanding base beer.  In fact, my notes from that evening uses the word "obliterates".