David Brockington's Tasting Notebook

Bhagwan's Best IPA


Initial Impressions:

Rather unlike the last IPA that I reviewed, I have had a lot of experience with the Big Time IPA. Big Time is a brewpub which opened up on Seattle's University Way in the Autumn of 1988. Soon thereafter I made a point of dropping in every month of so, sometimes more often, to sample the fine ales brewed on premises. The Big Time has three permanent beers -- a Pale, an "Amber", and a Porter. In addition to the regulars, they always have two, sometimes even three specialty brews on tap. To me, the latter are easily what defines the Big Time. While their three main beers have held their own, the specialties are responsible for the bulk of the 11 GABF medals hanging proudly at the bar. Bhagwan's Best is perhaps the best known of these specialties and tends to be brewed more than the other "regular" specialties.

As I have had the pleasure of sampling this beer (sometimes a bit too much) since I first had it in 1990, my expectations were unusually high when I finally cast a critical eye upon it with the intention of relaying my impressions back to our intimate forum on the net. In general, high expectations equate into lower scores, with the reverse being true as well. One will find that this beer creates an exception to the rule.

I reviewed the beer while having lunch with our beloved Keeper-of-the- Charter, Craig V, on July 15, at the Big Time. The pint which I was poured displayed a white head, unforced, with good retention properties. Lacework clung to the side of the glass as I slowly and meticulously consumed my first pint. This was a pale IPA, with the color being close to blonde or golden rather than copper. It was somewhat cloudy as well.

Nose:

A nice, pleasant, hoppy/floral experience. Behind the abundance of hops in the nose I noted a malty aroma which was equally pleasing. Freshness really does a beer good.

Flavor:

Interestingly enough, the beer started with a maltiness, which slid into a nice hop flavor, finishing with a slowly building hop bitterness which grows until it evolves into an unmistakable climax of assertiveness. The bitterness actually lingers in the back of the mouth for a substantial period of time. In the background throughout this experience was the unmistakable accents of water treatment. Knowing what I do of the new brewmaster at the Big Time, Dick Cantwell, I suspect nothing more than Gypsum. However, it does come through in a Seattle beer due to the fact that our water here is very soft. It provides a nice balance to the aggressive hop bitterness; I would shudder to think what this beer would be like without it.

Final Analysis:

An excellent, assertive IPA, which helps to define the "West Coast" interpretation of the style. It has that "stick to your ribs" bitterness that screams IPA! Liberty Ale is the only beer that I suspect would do a better job of representing the style.

****1/2 (out of 5)

Next Up:

Wild Goose Spring Wheat
Copyright 1994 by David Brockington, all rights reserved

David Brockington, Seattle, USA
bronyaur@u.washington.edu