David Brockington's Tasting 
Notebook

Grolsch Premium Pilsner

As most of the regulars are now tired of hearing, this month I moved from Seattle, my home of 12 years (broken only by a largely forgettable year spent at the University of Oregon in Eugene) to The Netherlands.  I’ll save the detail of the amazing beer selection in this part of the world for another time (although, as expected, I already miss AIPA).  Suffice it to say that the selection of Benelux and German varieties is excellent in even a small provincial town like Enschede.

I had not heard of Enschede until I looked it up on a map before applying for my position back in May.  It’s not known for much.  There used to be a thriving textile industry in this region of The Netherlands (known as “Twente”, though oddly that is not the name of any single province) but that died out by the 1960s.  To replace the lost industry, the country established a new university, one would guess to prop up the concrete industry, out here in 1963.  The University of Twente is where I now work.  There was that terrible explosion in May of 2000, when a fireworks warehouse in the center of town decided to put on a show (and render uninhabitable 20 or 30 blocks of residential housing).  Across the street from that warehouse sits the larger of the two Grolsch plants.

Most beer enthusiasts in the United States know of Grolsch if only for the cool bottles.  When I first started homebrewing, in 1989-90, I acquired a couple cases.  Looking back, I’m not exactly certain how I obtained them, because I don’t recall drinking that much Grolsch.  I think I had a friend who worked in a bar in Bremerton, Washington, who saved them for me.  Nonetheless, I suspect that Grolsch is known more for its bottles than its beer among US beer geeks.

While those bottles are certainly available here in Enschede, Grolsch is more commonly found in cans (500ml and 350ml sizes) and “standard” 300ml bottles (basically the same size as the 12 ouncers with which we Yanks are familiar).  I have settled on the 500ml can as my container of choice for Grolsch.  A four pack of these cans sells for f6.75 at the Supermarkt across the street from my flat.  Seeing as how one of the mantras of the US beer geek is “support your local brewery”, I think that it is appropriate that my first official review as a legal resident of The Netherlands is of my new local brewery. 

Initial Impressions:

A light hiss escapes as I pop open the can.  Well carbonated, the beer produces a solid, foamy white head that is slow to dissipate, as poured into my non-regulation glass.  Head retention is excellent.  This beer is bright and golden in color, perhaps a shade lighter than Pilsner Urquell. 

Nose:

A soft maltiness competes with light floral and grassy hop aromas.

Flavor:

For such a light, unpretentious beer, the flavor is nicely nuanced.  A soft, almost chunky maltiness opens, which then slides into modest floral hop flavors.  Some bready yeastiness comes through at this point, and then the beer finishes with an appropriate measure of balancing bitterness.  Mouthfeel is light with gassy overtones from the carbonation.

Final Analysis:


This is a solid everyday beer, and vastly superior to what passes as such in the USA.  It benefits from a lack of pasteurization and only light filtration, which (ironically) preserves the flavor in what could be a beer of modest aspiration.  Grolsch also brew an “amber”, which some have compared to an altbier, and four well-regarded (by Tim Webb, at least) seasonals.  I have a sixer of the winter seasonal chilling in my small Dutch fridge (what is the appropriate temperature for serving this beer, Peter?) which I will review presently.

Rating:

    
(Good on my 5-star scale)


Copyright 2001 by David Brockington,
all rights reserved.
Enschede, The Netherlands

Comments:
D.P.Brockington@bsk.utwente.nl
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Review #87