David Brockington's Tasting
Notebook

1996 Oregon Brewers Festival



As I have done in previous years, my overview of the several beers I sampled at the 1996 Oregon Brewers Festival will assume a slightly different form from normal reviews. This was my seventh straight year in attendance at what is being claimed as the third largest beer festival in the world (behind Oktoberfest and the GBBF). There were something like 88 brewers in attendance this year, up from the mid-70's last year.

While I was impressed with the organization of the festival in the previous two years, (which were marked improvements from 92 and 93) this year was highly problematic. Aside from the humid conditions, a map of brewer locations was not included with the program, and apparently logistical problems caused some brewers to run out of beer way early and others to be forced to share taps. Finally, the event staff was simply a bit too fastidious in checking ID. Not only was I carded (and concomitantly stamped) at the main gate, but I was carded whenever I entered the north beer tent (which is where most of the interesting beer was -- unfortunately, my group decided to set up shop in the south tent). The staff person at the north tent insisted on seeing my ID, even though I was clearly stamped by the main gate security checkpoint. I know that I look a bit ragged at times, but I do not appear underage.

Nevertheless, perhaps because I am a fool, I will attend again next year.


The following notes vary in quality and thoroughness. As with last year, I only took full comprehensive notes on one beer. This year's singular beer was Portland Brewing's Bavarian Wheat Beer. I also took followup notes on Tabernash Weiss, which I plan to append to that review (Tabernash was the 'singular' beer from the 1994 OBF). This year I had a busy schedule while in Portland, which prevented me from sampling as many beers as I am used to. Hence, I took notes on perhaps a dozen beers this year, down from over 30 the previous year. So, I certainly cannot call the Portland Weizen the 'best beer' of the festival.
Brewer: Bandon Brewing Company; Bandon, OR
Beer: Bogwater Scotch Ale
Style: Scotch Ale
Notes: Smoke and roast dominate nose. Not malty enough for a 1.068 beer; too dry and a bit too hoppy. Such a roasty profile should not be present in this beer, but it is tasty nonetheless.
Rating: ***

Brewer: Bayern Brewing, Inc.; Missoula, Montana
Beer: Bayern Pilsener
Style: "German Pilsener Lager"
Notes: Sulfury nose, decent malt profile, really bad finishing.
Rating: *1/2

Brewer: CJ's Brewpub; Vancouver, WA
Beer: Amberfest
Style: American Amber Ale
Notes: Definitely an essay on the fringes of the style! OG of 1.072, noticeable alcohol in flavor profile and a decidedly present chocolate malt character. Hops barely evident throughout (in contrast to the brewer's write-up on it) although it does have a bitter finish. Overall the beer is too dry, but an interesting attempt.
Rating: **1/2

Brewer: Commonwealth Brewing Company; Boston, MA
Beer: Best Mild Ale
Style: Mild Ale
Notes: 1.046 OG (tad high?); but a very good beer overall.
Rating: ****

Brewer: Kalamazoo Brewing Company; Kalamazoo, Michigan
Beer: Two Hearted Ale
Style: IPA
Notes: Nice citruisy nose; Centennial hops definitely come through. Golden color. Good malt base, good alpha and overall hop character. Body a bit thin.
Rating: ***1/2

Brewer: Tabernash Brewing Company; Denver, Colorado
Beer: Tabernash Weiss
Style: Bavarian Weizen
Notes: Followers of my reviews will recall two summers ago when I sampled Tabernash for the first time. At that time, there was a paucity of true Bavarian-style wheat beers in the United States; only homebrewers seemed to be making them. I liked Tabernash a lot, found it to be better than my own homebrewed version of the style (and it is rare that a commercial beer will beat out a good homebrewed beer for most styles), and awarded it a perfect rating.

Since then, Tabernash has switched from imported German malts to domestic malts. I don't know if it was this ingredient change, or if time has taken away some of the luster of Tabernash (it also is not nor was it ever decocted) but my sampling of it at the OBF in 1996 left me with the impression that this beer has slipped -- slightly.

The clove dominates the flavor profile, which is very nice. I tend to prefer Bavarian Weizens that tend to the clove over the banana. In most respects, this beer is still a great interpretation of the style. The only thing that I would like to see in it is that the body and maltiness be a bit more 'chunky'.
Rating: ****1/2

Brewer: Tablerock Brewing; Boise, Idaho
Beer: Weizen Creme Stout (that is how it is spelled)
Style: Sweet Stout
Notes: In many respects, I actually prefer taking notes on beers that are in vague or non-existent styles (so long as the brewer is honest about that and does not call it an IPA) because it offers me broader flexibility in assigning ratings. This is, of course, such a beer: a wheat cream stout. Neat concept.

That almost works. This beer has a nice stout-like profile, and a good roasty/chocolate finish. However, the body is rather thin and the flavor is not as present as it could be.
Rating: **1/2

Brewery: Treaty Grounds Brewpub; Moscow, Idaho
Beer: Scottish Ale
Style: see above
Notes: Way too roasty and dry. The literature on this beer claims that Scottish Ales are "a bit sweeter than your typical brew." Not this one. Furthermore, there was some sort of procedural flaw evident in the finish, but I moved on to the next sample before trying to ascertain what it was.
Rating: *1/2

Brewer: Wild River Brewing; Grants Pass, Oregon Style: Czech Pils
Notes: Excellent Saaz nose! Pretty good pilsner profile throughout, nice hop character and maltiness. Judicious use of Mt. Hood for kettle hop appropriate (as Mt. Hood are a domestic clone of Hallertauer Mit. and are cheaper than the imported Saaz used ot finish this beer). I would like to have seen a bit more chunkiness in the malt profile.
Rating: ***1/2


Well, that's it for this year. Unfortunately I did not get to sample as many different beers as I would have liked to. Also, I would really like to see a map inserted with the festival program so I can plan my time accordingly (i.e. hit the beers I want when I want). See you at the 1997 Oregon Brewers Festival!
Copyright 1996 by David Brockington, all rights reserved.
Seattle, USA

Comments? Fire off some email: dbrock@u.washington.edu
[Back]" Return to Notebook Contents Page